The sixth is the center of our Parisian universe.  Though we take up just a tiny sliver of its 0.8 square mile (about 300 square feet to be exact), we have spent a large chunk of our dining hours within its boundaries, everywhere from hole-in-the-wall joints to nicer sit-down restaurants to the well-frequented Monoprix supermarket for a meal back at home.  There remain many known and unknown gems to be sampled but we have no doubt that we will get through most of them, or fail trying.  After all, we love eating as much as we love living where we live.
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Four Baguettes
Au P’tit Snack
23, rue Saint-André des Arts
M° Saint-Michel

Euro - 8 or less
Anchoring the more touristy end of a nearly-pedestrian street, this little kebab place might seem like just another one of a hundred of its kind.  It is not.  At least not to us.

Our first encounter was on a hot June day when we went in search of food after helping les Verts move into their rental apartment.  We had no inkling of what we wanted when we ran into a man with a platter of steaming meat in the middle of the crowded street.  We could not and did not pass up taking a sample.  One bite into the moist and flavorful morsels and we were sold.  While the rest of les Verts patronized the nearby Subway (it was only their first day), we and the Language Chameleon picked up delectable sandwiches and pitas chocked full of different kinds of meat and accompanied by golden crispy fries:  döner kebab (4.50€) and adana kebab (5€).  While the others in our party munched on good old American-style sandwiches by the Saint-Michel fountain, we stood by their side feasting on a fantastic meal that was itself also an import.  The Language Chameleon was so impressed that he declared to the grateful owner on a later occasion:  “C’est le meilleur de Paris.”

  Maybe not the healthiest but definitely the tastiest just-off-the-plane meal:  The döner kebab (4.50€) with its faithful companions, les frites.

Ever since that day, to its mirrored interior we still return whenever a kebab craving takes hold of us or whenever we have a guest from out of town who wants more than just the same old same old.  The routine has become döner kebab for each of us (the adana kebab and a later-tried köfte kebab (4.50€) can be a bit dry at times), sauce blanche (yoghurt sauce with garlic and herbs) for Nez and harissa (a North African hot sauce) for Riot.  This is also just about the only place where we are actually recognized by the staff and are greeted like closed friends.  Sometimes, when simply passing by we would still elicit a little wave or a smile.  It makes us feel that we are not just another couple in a crowd of hundreds more such couples.


  Sometimes a sandwich and fries just aren't enough:  The menu assiette (10€) comes with extras like greens and rice.
  Variation on the theme:  Merguez sausages (4.50€) in the place of the usual meat off the spit.
  Another style of meat, another item on the menu:  The adana kebab (5€) tends to be on the dry side.
  Ground up and charred:  A köfte kebab (4.50€) on a bad day, too large and too dry to go in a sandwich.
  There is more than just beef and lamb:  The chicken chika (5€) is a juicy and tasty alternative to all the red meat.
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