The sixth is the center of our Parisian universe.  Though we take up just a tiny sliver of its 0.8 square mile (about 300 square feet to be exact), we have spent a large chunk of our dining hours within its boundaries, everywhere from hole-in-the-wall joints to nicer sit-down restaurants to the well-frequented Monoprix supermarket for a meal back at home.  There remain many known and unknown gems to be sampled but we have no doubt that we will get through most of them, or fail trying.  After all, we love eating as much as we love living where we live.
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Pizza Vesuvio
1, rue Gozlin
M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Euro - 9 to 16
As a testament to the roots of this area, there is an 1868 photo in an excellent book called “Walks Through Lost Paris” by Leonard Pitt (p.15) (courtesy of the Kaiser who likes to promote reading and online book purchases) showing the exact corner where this pizza restaurant now sits.  In fact, it is even the same building.  It is certainly nice to be able to think about the things that the place where one dines has gone through while one waits for the food.  That is one of the many “layers” of Paris that makes it a joy to live in.

One of the joys of life is undoubtedly the enjoyment of good food.  Never wary of superlatives, Riot declared that he thought this place served the best pizza he had had in Paris and ranks among the top elsewhere.  He based that solely on one, and first, experience (how many does one need?) with the pizza du chef (12€; 10€ to go).  From the fire of the brick oven came a misshapen dough, ringed with a crispy edge and adorn with a sprinkle of tasty merguez (spicy lamb sausage) and a once-sunny-side-up egg baked right in.  This delicious combination was held together by what the menu dubbed “sauce verte,” which appeared to be a sort of pesto sauce.  To make this an even better experience, regularly apply healthy doses of the spicy oil.  This chef knows his pizzas.
  The best pizza in Paris up until then:  The pizza du chef (12€; 10€ to go) is a delightful commingling of flavors.

Nez was somewhat less enthusiastic about hers, an even more garrulous creation called the soufflé pizza (12€), which resembled a bread pocket stuffed with mozzarella, ham, egg, and tomato sauce.  The clearer and more concise of the two, she thought it was “OK.”

The first time here, we ducked inside for a bite to eat as well as to dodge the driving rain.  Through the glass window we saw the amusing sight of meter maids emerging from their own shelter after the rain to give out parking tickets; apparently, it was safe to park illegally as long as it kept raining.  The second time we came it was near closing time and we could hardly get the attention of anyone to place our order.  After that, we discovered that we could simply take the pies home to eat in the company of the TV at somewhat of a discount.  We also tried to branch out, one time getting something that we thought was something else but it turned out to be something else altogether: a sort of tuna daily special.  We thought it was good anyway.

Where else?  144, avenue des Champs Élysées (8e) (  • 25, rue Quentin Bauchart (8e) (
  Yes, this is a pizza:  The soufflé pizza (12€) that tastes better than it looks, which is to say it tastes, “OK.”

  The mystery daily special:  We order this by sight and discover that it has some kind of tuna topping.
  A perfect companion in front of the TV:  The pizza peperoni (8.50€ to go) is baked to order, which takes about a minute.
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